Q&A with make-up expert,
SAM FINE

Revlon (Trinidad and Tobago) recently invited Sam Fine to answer some of the most asked questions on make-up application. Belle got the inside peak. Here’s what our expert had to say:

I notice that my face looks different depending on the lighting in a room. What lighting is ideal when applying make-up?

No, to the ceiling light. Lighting from above casts a shadow over your face, and when you’re applying make-up you’re actually trying to remove shadows. The trick is for your face to be lit evenly, without light sources casting shadows on it. Try placing your light source at eye level to the side of your mirror. Fluorescent lighting is also out of the question, as these emphasize skin imperfections.

Ideally, use window light on a sunny day or apply make-up outdoors, but try to avoid sharp sunlight. If outdoor lighting is too inconvenient, try to replicate natural light by using colored or coated bulbs, which throw off a light that is soft and warm.

You want beautiful lighting that you feel beautiful in. A lot of the times I take a light with me to scheduled make-up bookings. That way, I can control what I’m going to see.

I have a lot of dark spots on my face, but when I apply foundation I still see them, highlighted even. What should I do?

You need more coverage. Try applying more cream foundation for a beautiful finish. Don’t be afraid of applying more make-up. Some people are afraid that the make-up would look too heavy, but this is not the case, once you’ve primed your skin and you have the correct colour foundation. If you find that one product does not work for you, shop around for another.

I find it hard to wear lipstick because of the fullness of my lips. I don’t like to draw more attention to them. What do you suggest?

You’re probably not used to seeing yourself in lipstick so the challenge is to get used to seeing yourself in make-up. What you can try is bringing definition to the mouth without adding much colour. This can be achieved by lining your mouth with a dark brown liner, as you have dark lips. Blend the liner slightly inwards for a natural look.

Use a lip brush, and bring lipstick on top of the liner and blend into the mouth. If you use a lip brush you’re able to get great coverage. After, you should not see any traces of your lip liner. Apply a lighter shade to the middle of your lips to get rid of the pink and achieve that “natural” nude mouth. Then take a nice shade of gloss, place a little in the back of your hand, and apply to the center.

Is it wrong to use just lip liner on the lips with gloss in the middle?

Yes, you can use this approach if you find a shade of liner you love. You can use it all over the lips, but I find lipstick easier to use.

Make-Up Steps

Be sure you have a proper make-up base before applying lipstick, blush and eye-shadow.

1. Cleanse.
2. Apply clear mascara to brush the brow. (Trim brow where necessary). Trimming the longer hairs makes brows look neat and consistent.
3. Moisturize (using a cream that’s SPF 30 or higher). Tip: You can skip this step if you have oily skin, won’t be exposed to the sun for long periods, or if your primer or foundation already contains a decent level of sun protection.
4. Then start with primer. Primer helps make-up glide onto the face, and is often credited for the glowing faces we see on movie stars. Tip: Try Revlon Beyond Natural Soothing Primer.
5. Apply concealer before foundation, just like you scalpel before you paint. Use a concealer one or two shades lighter than your complexion. Dot concealer, using a pointy tip brush or your fingers, on any dark spots to be concealed. Apply under the eyes and bring towards the center of face (on top of cheekbones), contouring straight along the nose. Blend. Tip: Use a cream concealer for best results, as liquid creases a little more and settles into fine lines.
6. Apply foundation, using a foundation brush, sponge or finger. Tip: Use a liquid foundation in warm climates.
7. Pay attention to your forehead as this area gets a lot more sun than the rest of your face and might be a different colour. If your forehead is more tanned, get a darker foundation for along the hairline.
   Tip: If you want coverage make sure you’re not smearing or moving make-up around. Don’t wipe on. Get a foundation brush or sponge. Place foundation and make sure it sits where you want.
8. Press on powder. Use a powder one shade lighter under the eyes. If your nose or T-zone shines the most, powder that area. Whisk powder away with brush.