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Surprising Sojourn
St. Maarten
The Mullet Bay roadside was awash with oncoming traffic.
Skeptical about renting a car, we (myself, my husband,
my brother and his wife) waited for any sign of a Philisburg
taxi that could get us into the city, when suddenly
an eccentric woman in a red mini-van pulled to the
curb and asked, “Why are you standing here, where are
you going?” We looked at her with a terrified expression
and her expression read, “My God, do you think I’m
going to hurt you!” Skepticism in tow, we all stepped
in the van while she sped off, chattering that we would
have stood there for hours before we spotted a taxi.
She drove swiftly passed Princess Julianna airport and Simpson Bay
en route to the Dutch capital. As she chit-chatted – her black and
white batik bandana moving excitedly on her head – I discovered
that she was from the French side of the island, thought the days
were too sweltering, and was just doing some back-to-school shopping
for her two children. At this point I was uncertain about border
restrictions as it applied to moving from the French to Dutch
side of the island (and vice versa) but she affirmed that crossing the
marked zones was no hassle at all.
I was constantly reminded of the charming fact that St. Maarten is
the smallest landmass in the world to be shared by two different nations:
a total of thirty-seven square miles are divided between France
and the Netherlands Antilles. Soon we approached the capital and
parted with our kind stranger as she pulled across at the top of Front
Street.
Philipsburg held a semblance of little Europe. Only four streets deep
and one mile long, the city was laced with the biggest brand name
stores – Tiffany, Max Mara, Liz Claiborne, Tommy Hilfiger, Del
Sol – and brands like Dolce and Gabbana, Chanel, David Yurman,
Tacori, Cartier, Chopard and Mont Blanc among others. Diamonds
dazzled from windowpanes of the Caribbean’s most exclusive - Colombian
Emeralds International, Tanzanite International and Diamonds
International. Other Indian owned jewellery stores were
scattered along the streets, clamoring for attention – I was actually
given a free gem by one jeweller in his anticipation that I would return.
The charming spectacle, seductive prices, bargains and no vat
purchases can, no doubt, debauch the unsuspecting shopper.
And I was certainly unsuspecting. The purpose of my visit precluded
shopping, but some bargains sucked me in: a Chanel handbag
on sale, a Dolce and Gabbana rope bag and finally a pair of Maui
Jims.
But shopping is not the most satiable attraction in the Dutch capital.
For me, cuisine ranks at number one. We tried Fusion restaurant
on Front Street that looked out to a mile long boardwalk running the
entire length of the city’s waterfront. I tried fried calamari rings for
the first time – a unique and delectable treat with the distinct taste
of calamari in an onion ring. My companions also found the tuna
steak – well done and lightly seasoned - to be quite a treat.
We returned to the city just once after that, on a tour around the
island, but most of our meals were had close to Mullet Bay, along
the Simpson Bay and Maho area. Lee’s Roadside Grill stood out as the
best seafood restaurant. We sat overlooking the waterfront where
the yachts come in. Apparently the fish are caught by that very waterfront
and diners have the option of securing their own catch. (We
forwent that option much to the disappointment of the men in our
company). I had the snapper fillet, smeared with garlic butter and
island herbs and literally grilled to perfection. My companions were
also pleased with their whole snapper and mahi mahi experience.
The following night we tried Skip Jack, another restaurant in the
Simpson Bay area. It was here that – after appetizing crab chowder - I
had (literally) the most tender and most succulent grilled grouper,
oozing with lemon and herbed butter juices, served with rice and
vegetables.
On the last night we returned to Lee’s for their famous mouthwatering
grilled lobster dish. We selected our catch from a massive tank
– and purchased by the pound. Needless to say, this specialty was
the culmination of everything irresistible we’d tasted on the island
thus far.
Though St. Maarten was initially imposed on us by a timeshare going
to waste - the little island charmed us, with its friendly people,
great shopping, excellent food, and interesting. 
- Aliyyah Eniath
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