Newcomer on the fashion scene

Belle catches up with ANYA AYOUNG CHEE, Trinidad & Tobago’s representative for Miss Universe (2008), and newbie designer on the fashion block. Anya unveiled her modish collection, Pilar – in memory of her brother who tragically passed away two years ago – at Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week last May.

CB: Did you have an early passion for fashion that made you visualize yourself as a designer beforehand?

Anya: Yes, from as young as I can remember, I was always posing or dressing up. I loved wearing high-heeled shoes, cutting up clothes, and trying things on inside out. According to my mother, I was always doing something with my clothes or hers. I’m the only girl of six children and the first born, so it was always me against them; they (my brothers) were always doing their own thing.

CB: So when did being a designer come into play?

Anya: Not until I brazenly decided to pursue art instead of medicine at university. My father was a doctor and I had intended to adopt this profession as well, but it was clearer at a certain point that being a doctor was not my passion. I knew how much drive that took and how much time, and looking at my father I knew I did not have that.

Art was so much more interesting. I was very fortunate – my parents took me to Japan when I was sixteen. I was inspired by how well designed everything was – from the signage to the napkins and everything.

But art and fashion are intertwined and it wasn’t long before I realized that fashion was my real passion. But I was homesick at the time whilst studying abroad (at Parson’s in New York then Saint Martin’s in London) and decided to pursue a more practical course of study in Communications Design and return home. And that’s what my degree is in.

CB: Did being thrust into the limelight in Trinidad as Miss T&T Universe spur you on?

Anya: It’s an interesting link to ponder, but when I went to Miss Universe, Peter Elias (formerMiss Universe franchise holder and fashion designer) was very kind to me; he allowed me to choose outfits and fabrics for myself. Oftentimes I co-designed what I wore. So it was not so much being thrust into the limelight but more of recognizing that I had the ability to design clothes. Everything we chose together was well received. And it was so much fun. There were days when I changed clothes about four times, and I had a ball; that was my favorite part.

CB: Isn’t that tough though?

Anya: It’s more of a challenge now – in everyday life. When I was in Vietnam I was on a high representing my country. There was such an adrenalin rush. It was exhausting but there was something fueling me all the time.

On the last day, at the evening after party I was just completely exhausted on a level I had never experienced before. Especially because I had not placed I felt I had to be there to continue representing Trinidad and Tobago.

CB: How did you handle not placing?

Anya: It was devastating! I was thinking about all the people back home with such expectation who were counting on me. I went backstage and I was completely devastated. I was really attached to placing – I went there to win, to compete. I have since dealt with the disappointment and recognized what is really important, but at that moment that’s how I felt. Now I think maybe I stand to make Trinidad proud in another way.

CB: When you returned to Trinidad you got together with Meiling to work on the second M Squared collection, correct?

Anya: I actually want to LA thinking I wanted to be a television host, as I really liked the small jobs I did pre Miss Universe. But it was difficult with our accent, and I would have had to undergo a lot of training. So I came back to Trinidad to get a TV show here instead, which I did, it was fashion based – Make It Yours – on Rated C (a magazine show on CNMG).

When M Squared’s second collection came around Meiling and Micles asked me to style that collection for the campaign. That was the first major project with them. Afterwards, I styled their collection for Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week.

Meiling and I have had a long relationship. She’s a family friend of my grandmother - she even made my mother’s wedding dress—it’s a long thing. During the last year whilst training for Miss Universe we became good friends and she became my mentor as well. I went to her for advice; she’s been in the industry for so long and was always able to give me insight.

But M Squared has been great and we enjoyed working on the campaign. It’s such an example of a line that allows you to be an individual and not follow trends.

CB: I’m attached to that idea – that you don’t have to sport trends or be wealthy or a model to be in style as fashion is about individuality.

Anya: Without a doubt. I admire people who dress in utilitarian ways, like uniformed individuals who are able to do something different with their ensemble to express themselves. For instance, the Bobo-Shanti (who my line was patterned after) dress to reflect their culture. But what really fascinates me is the seemingly effortless expression of self amongst them. It fits to the point that you’re making, that you don’t have to be wealthy or a celebrity to be in style. It’s the people on the streets with a keen sense of what it means to express themselves through their clothes who are most fashionable.

CB: Is this debut collection a reflection of what’s to come? Or is your follow up line carded to be just as unique as this one?

Anya: That’s a good question; I’m really working through that right now. I’ve gotten so much good feedback on this line that it makes me wonder if I should continue this sort of afro-centric yet edgy and sexy modern thing. But at the same time I tend to evolve through how I dress. Once I’ve worn something enough times it gets to be a little too hackneyed.

CB: Our icon designers regionally have carved their respective niches. You always know a Heather Jones or a Claudia Pegus etcetera. Are you in that process of carving your niche? Anya: I’m trying to figure that out. As a branding exercise it’s better to remain in one vein and establish yourself so that people can recognize you in that way. That’s my challenge, to do that with flexibility and diversity. CB: Have you considered how you’re going to make fashion design into a viable business locally?

Anya: Also a good question. I’ve been to Jamaica last week for fashion week and I’ve been getting requests and orders. However, I’m sure most designers locally suffer from the same problem: we don’t have the factories for mass production. So local designers do more made-to-wear than ready-to-wear. I admire the designers who have stuck it out over the years when fashion was not getting the support it should have.

Ultimately, I have to decide between how much I can support production wise to bring in revenue that is substantial. But luckily, this is not a moneymaking thing for me – it’s a passion. Once I can make enough to continue to provide fashion then that’s fine.

CB: What type of person do you visualize wearing your designs?

Anya: I see it working for the girl/woman who is edgy, slightly urban and able to style herself. The way I’ve designed it you can mix and match a lot. You won’t have to wear only Pilar; like now I’m wearing Guess and Pilar. The line was not meant to be a head-to-toe look. So the woman who wears it should have that sensibility and value individuality.

CB: What do you think makes your line really unique?

Anya: I think the marriage to something that comes from a cultural reference that’s very much ours. For instance, the Bobo- Shanti is a Caribbean Rastafarian sect that does not exist anywhere else.

CB: You’ve incorporated that culture into a very modern, fun…

Anya: Exactly! Our generation wants to be local. But we don’t want to wear a kaftan or linen every day. We want to be sexy, and in context but still be ourselves. So I think that that’s what makes this line unique; that you can still dress Caribbean, but in a very modern as opposed to an established way.

CB: When did you know that you were going to show at fashion week?

Anya: I approached Diane Hunt last year.

CB: So you’ve had a lot of time to plan?

Anya: I did but I was also heavily involved in the casting and advertising of fashion week, which really took precedence – only after that was settled I started working on the line.

CB: Right – Fuse – your communication design company. Tell us about that.

Anya: Well we continue to do work for M Squared and Trinidad and Tobago Fashion Week and boutique advertising etcetera. Then we have a talent division to develop models, singers, and any kind of creative talent. The Caribbean is abounding with talent and more and more people want to be in a creative field, so Fuse is about facilitating dreams.

CB: On a personal note, how does your family feel about your recent endeavors?

Anya: My mother was totally nervous the whole time. My father is extremely proud. It was a tough time because Pilar’s anniversary was that week – the second year anniversary. And I think even though they were very proud of me it was hard to separate from that. And I actually used these drummers for my show that drummed at his funeral. It was very personal for us, and that I’m sure was hard for them. But there is no question that they’re happy about it…and seeing his name…it was very happy for them.

CB: So what’s next for Pilar?

Anya: I’d have a new collection by Christmas – to show at the Commonwealth Summit. Look out for it!

- Aliyyah Eniath