Memoirs of a Fashion Photographer - Calvin French

Calvin French rose to fame on the international fashion scene…only to realize that when you finally get to the top, you feel quite as ordinary as you did before. Calvin grew up on the island of Trinidad, and saw what an ordinary boy would perhaps never notice—how fashionable the women of his childhood were. “My grandmother wore these beautiful, light dresses, and on Frederick Street everyone was so well-dressed,” he recalls.

Calvin and his mom moved to Canada during his teenage years, and though his sense of fashion was innate, it was through a chance encounter with John Warden (a fashion legend in Canada) whilst breezing on St. Catherine road in Montreal, that Calvin first discovered the commercial world of fashion. Warden thought that Calvin looked “incredible,” and convinced the less-than-happy camper to do some runway modeling for a clothing collection that was in the making. Tempted by boredom and the lure of the unknown, Calvin continued to model…and soon landed pages in Eden’s Catalogue, Toronto Life, and Women’s Wear Daily.

Success and guidance from industry friends led Calvin to Europe in the 1970’s. Soon he would meet with some of the most recognizable faces in the fashion world and make a stamp on the pages of signature magazines. “There was that early stage of disco and a black phase of fashion in Paris, where faces like mine were in demand.” Calvin befriended model Beverly Johnson, who is celebrated as the first black girl to grace the cover of American Vogue in 1974. He was invited to high society events, mingling with the likes of Dianna Ross, Grace Jones, and Bianca Jagger at Studio 54 and Club 7—exclusive clubs famed for the most riotous parties and celebrity attendance.

“It was ‘Silvy’ who I met whilst screening for Valentino, who initially introduced me to all these people…it was a wonderful experience…but I soon got bored of that life.” A friend convinced Calvin to visit Italy for a short while to regain some perspective. It was a trip that Calvin would take, but one that would last 21 years. Calvin fell in love with the Italian way of life, enjoying a sense of Italian decadence in art, fashion, and architecture. He continued to model, landing jobs with French Vogue, Elle, and GQ magazines.

“There was a time when in one month I was in all of the popular magazines at once, and I thought ‘Hey! I’m famous!’”

Then I realized that you spend your life working your way up that ladder of fame and money, but when you get there, it’s the most ordinary thing. I didn’t feel different.”

Calvin was at that juncture in his life where he felt that he needed a change to regroup and refocus. This feeling led him to take on a solitary hitchhiking mission from France to Milan, where he once again found himself. This time, he decided that he no longer wanted to model; he felt that he knew enough to become a model’s agent—a field in which he would later gain great success.

He retuned to his modeling agency in Milan, intent to convince them that he had what it took to be a model agent. He knew the client’s tastes and preference, and though he spoke slightly broken Italian, they enjoyed friendly rapport with him. Soon, he found himself being granted the post of ‘Agent’ for the entire men’s division! He became delightfully close with Rosanna Armani who had immense trust in him to service the Armani brand. Valentino and Vogue were among his other main clients.

Calvin’s work gained fierce recognition across Europe as he produced some of the best models in the world—Mark Van de Lou was at the top of this list. But his main problem was how his models were presented to prospective clients. He thought that photographers just weren’t shooting the pictures right; he often felt that the lighting or scenery was too dramatic at times and that the models just got lost in the photo.

“It’s funny how I changed from being a model’s agent to photographer: one of my photographer friends, impatient with my relentless requests and innate perfectionism, handed me the camera to shoot the picture myself! I looked at the camera and thought to myself that I knew nothing about that piece of equipment.”

But, Calvin soon learnt some basic camera applications and began shooting photos of his models, the way he saw them. Needless to say, he landed his first contract as a fashion photographer with his long-time client, Armani.

The fashion world in the Caribbean would soon be shaken, as Calvin’s eventual return to the islands would raise the bar for fashion photography in the region.

“Peter Elias (renowned Trinidadian fashion designer) found me in New York, and though I had had a successful career, I was miserable. I was growing older in years and subconsciously yearned for home; though I lived in Milan I never felt like I was from that part of the world. I always felt ‘Trini’. Peter convinced me to come back to the Caribbean and work on some new fashion magazines that were coming out of the region, and to travel the islands. And here I am.”

Since his return to the Caribbean, Calvin has made significant contributions to the region. Inspired by the creativity and art of Calvin’s brand of photography, new photographers are emerging…producing work that in earlier years would have defied the imagination.

He provides professional training for regional models who would not have otherwise had the chance to train with someone of his stature and international experience. He also screens, photographs, and provides support for Caribbean representatives for the Miss World and Miss Universe pageants, and serves as a judge and consultant on various art and fashion platforms.

Calvin has also been the esteemed Creative Director for our very own Caribbean Belle magazine since the year of its inception.

“I’ve always wanted to produce a magazine about the Caribbean to show off to the rest of the world. That’s when I met Aliyyah and Felicia at Belle, and I’ve finally gotten this opportunity. Belle is clean and sophisticated, like an Elle of the Caribbean.” And at Caribbean Belle, Calvin has found a home.

He reveals, “being humble” as the secret behind his success. “Money is not the first thing, it’s the last thing. You have to be polite and charming.”

Calvin French’s worth to the region is invaluable. After all, we will rely on the photographs of today to showcase to those who come along later, how we saw the world.

- Aliyyah Eniath -